Fish 'n' Chips

Ingredients

1 1/2 pounds boiling or yellow-fleshed potatoes,
cut into wedges
1/4 cup plus 3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
(EVOO), plus more for drizzling
6 cloves garlic, smashed and peeled
2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh rosemary leaves
Salt and pepper
1/2 cup cornmeal
1/4 cup flour
1/4 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese
Juice and grated peel of 1 lemon
Four 6- to 8-ounce red snapper fillets
4 plum tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1/3 cup chopped flat-leaf parsley (a generous handful)
4 scallions, finely chopped


Directions

1. Preheat the oven to 500°. Place the potatoes on a baking sheet and toss with 3 tablespoons EVOO, the garlic, the rosemary and salt and pepper to taste. Roast until the potatoes are tender and golden at the edges, 20 to 25 minutes.
2. While the potatoes are working, in a large skillet, heat the remaining 1/4 cup EVOO, 4 turns of the pan, over medium-high heat. Combine the cornmeal, flour, cheese and lemon peel on a plate. Season the snapper with salt and pepper, then coat evenly with the cornmeal mixture. Fry in the skillet, turning once, until golden brown, about 7 minutes total.
3. In a medium bowl, toss together the tomatoes, parsley, scallions, lemon juice and a drizzle of EVOO; season with salt and pepper.
4. Top the fish with the sauce and serve the potatoes alongside.

WHITBY SKIPPERS CELEBRATE

THE sea angling industry in Whitby has been saved after a dramatic Government climb-down caused in part by pressure from the town's skippers.
Jonathan Shaw, Parliamentary Under-Secretary at DEFRA announced on Tuesday he was scrapping plans to introduce a compulsory rod licence for anglers, a move which Whitby skippers had warned would cripple the industry.

The plans were part of the Marine Bill currently passing through Parliament and would have seen anyone wanting to use a rod to fish off Whitby pier or on a chartered boat having to purchase a licence first.

Paul Kilpatrick, chairman of Whitby Charter Skippers Association (WCSA) said he was delighted the Government had changed its mind.

“It is fantastic news,” he told the Whitby Gazette.

“There is no doubt it would have put an end to the industry in Whitby if the licence would have been introduced.

“I have been speaking to a few of the lads and they are over the moon.

“The threat has not gone away forever but this is still great news.

“A few of them were talking about cracking open the champagne.”

Whitby MP Robert Goodwill, who took up the fight alongside the Whitby skippers, echoed Mr Kilpatrick’s sentiment

“I feel this decision is in no small part down to the pressure put on Mr Shaw by the Whitby Charter Skippers Association and, dare I say it, even myself,” he said.

“After meeting the skippers and hearing their concerns I talked to Mr Shaw and invited him to come and meet them himself.

“I’m glad he’s changed his mind, the fact licences are now not part of the Marine Bill means it won't be brought up again for quite some time.”

The WCSA claimed that if the licence was introduced it would put all the Whitby boats and tackle shops out of business, and according to Mr Kilpatrick would wipe £2m of Whitby's annual economy. The angling industry is said to be worth around £1bn a year nationally.

On Tuesday Mr Shaw said, in a written response to a parliamentary question, that after meeting sea angling representatives last month he had decided to remove the licence from the bill.

He said: “In view of the concerns expressed, including the extent to which sea anglers expected to see benefits from the charge, I have decided not to proceed with enabling powers in the Marine Bill to introduce a sea angling licence.”

Rings and frame designs

Titanium Oxide



-Guides available in four popular frame styles: Tri-leg frame, Straight-leg frame, Single-leg frame and Heavy-Duty Boat Frame designs.
-Titanium oxide guides available in Chrome Stainless, Black and Gold frame color. Heavy duty Boat frame is standard in Black frame. For use on all spinning, casting and fly rods. Heavy duty frames excellent for saltwater rods.
-Standard preground foot on all titanium oxide ring guides.

Silicon Carbide



-Very low friction rate.
-Guides available in Tri-leg and Single-leg frame designs.
-Available in standard Gunsmoke frame color.
-Standard pre-ground foot on all Silicon Carbide ring guides.
-An excellent choice for all spinning, casting and fly rods.

Titanium-Silver



-Guides available in Tri-leg and Single-leg frame designs.
-Available in standard Gunsmoke frame color.
-Lightweight yet very durable
-Very low abrasion rate
-Standard ground foot
-Silver Titanium Rings
-Highly attractive high-end guides

Titanium-Gold



-Guides available in Tri-leg and Single-leg frame designs.
-Available in standard Gunsmoke frame color.
-Standard pre-ground foot on all Titanium-Gold ring guides.
-A beautiful look and excellent choice for high-end spinning, casting and fly rods.

Ceramic



-Guides available in three popular frame styles: Tri-leg, Straight-leg and Single-leg designs.
-Ceramic guides come in two frame colors: Chrome Stainless and Black.
-SCG style available in Straight-leg only.
-BSEG & SCG are available in #50 frame size.
-For use on all medium to heavy action rods.

Fly



-Fly guides are available in snake and single foot designs.
-Both designs available in Chrome Stainless, Black and Gold color.
-All fly guides are standard with pre-ground foot for easier wrapping.

Heavy Duty - Wire



-One piece design heavy-duty Stainless Steel.
-Ideal for all heavy use saltwater rods.
-Available in standard natural Stainless Steel.

Heavy Duty Stainless Steel



Heavy Duty Stainless Steel Guides
-Stainless steel frame and guide ring.
-Ideal for heavy use saltwater rods.
-Available in standard hard-chrome finish.

Heavy Duty Stainless Steel Tops
-Stainless steel frame and top ring.
-Ideal for heavy use saltwater rods.
-Match to the HXBG guides.
Available in standard hard-chrome finish.

Kite Fishing

Have you ever wondered what you would catch if you could cast your fishing line 500 to 1000 metres offshore?



Here at Paul's Fishing Kites we know from the thousands of reports sent in from our customers around New Zealand and overseas.

You will catch plenty!!

Whether you intend fishing from shore or boat, wish to troll, bottom fish or simply cast your line out until your fishing reel runs out of line we have the perfect kite system for you.

Our range of kites can get you fishing two or three hooks on as little as 8kg mainline from small rod and reel right up to big 100kg kitefishing rigs which can tow 25 hooks or more out up to 2 kilometres offshore.

When Paul's Fishing Kites released its first kite fishing system in 1987 it was a revelation!

Shore-based anglers instantly acknowledged that a wind driven system had finally been devised that could overcome the frustration of casting fishing lines well past surf and shallow water out to where the big fish are.

Kitefishing allows fishers to productively fish in much lighter winds than any other wind driven fishing system.

Paul's Fishing Kites are dedicated to improving their products to enhance your fishing enjoyment and success.
As a direct result of our earnest commitment to quality, performance and versatility in kite fishing technology, and as research and market leaders in this innovative industry we have developed a variety of systems to facilitate shore based fishing in terrain and conditions otherwise impossible to access or fish using any other method.

Our light wind "power chute" kites can fish in as little as three to four knots of wind.

Our heavy wind "super kites" have been used for towing scientific depth sounding transducers off the Ross ice shelf in Antartica.

One of our customers, Alan Radcliff fished a strong wind kite in winds gusting over 70 knots as recorded by the lighthouse keeper at Manukau Heads.

Di malaysia saya belum nampak lagi orang memancing menggunakan layang-layang,boleh di guna pakai ni.

Reel Maintenance

A well maintained reel will give years of faithful service and the time and cost involved is remarkably small. You should, of course, avoid laying it in the sand, and at the end of the day, do give it a light hose over with fresh water.
Every three or four outings, however, the following quick service will protect and extend the life of your reel.

The most exposed points on your reel are the pivot screws on both sides of the bail arm and the bail roller.These three areas are not only exposed to salt water, they also become encrusted with fish oil, bits of scale and whatever else collects on your fingers during the course of a days fishing.In fact, it never does any harm to spray lubricant here at the end of each outing.

Two other spots that can benefit from regular lubrication without any dismantling are the finger grip on the handle (2) and the anti-reverse switch (3). On some models this may be located under the body.Next, remove the handle assembly and lubricate the bearings/bushes on either side of the reel body and also the handle shaft (1).

The anti-reverse mechanism itself is located under the rotor on most models so it is very important to pay particular attention to this area and treat it with a liberal dose of lubricant.


Next, undo the drag knob by screwing in an anti-clockwise direction, then remove the spool and lubricate the shaft.Finally, a light spray of lubricant applied to the drag washers located on top of the spool (1) will ensure they don't rust or bind up and will remain smooth in operation.

Calculating Fish Weight

Practice Catch and Release

Have you ever wondered how much the one that got away weighed? While the one that got away will always be fertile fodder for tall tales, now you can accurately estimate the weight of the ones that you let get away. By gently taking some simple measurements of the fish before it is released and employing the formula below, you can know exactly how much the fish weighed. Any further exaggeration is purely discretionary.

The Formula:

((Girth x Girth) x Length) / 800 = weight in pounds

(girth and length are inches)

Example:

If the fish’s girth is 15 inches and its length is 29 inches, the formula would be used as follows:

15 x 15 x 29, divided by 800 = 8.16 pounds

Then the ".16" or "16/100" is converted to ounces (multiply by 16)

.16 x 16 = 2.56 or 3 ounces

so this fish is 8 pounds 3 ounces

how keep life bait

Introduction

This simplified guide is intended to teach the fundamentals of the proper aeration techniques in keeping live bait, and "catch & release" fish, alive and healthy in live wells.
The advantages as well as disadvantages of many types of aeration will be discussed.

Understanding the Concept of Aeration

There are many misconceived ideas about aeration.
Two common fallacies are:

Large live wells are required to sustain a large quantity of fish.
Large live well pumps are needed to move large quantities of water through the live well to keep live bait and fish alive.
To understand what is really needed in proper aeration, it is best to take a look at ourselves.

FACTS:

-If we were enclosed in a large airtight room we would be able to breathe for many hours before we would consume all the oxygen.
-If we were in an airtight closet, the oxygen would be consumed a lot quicker.
-If we were swimming underwater without a snorkel, the oxygen in our lungs would be gone very quickly.
-In all cases, without additional oxygen we would expire!
However, we could stay alive indefinitely, if we could use a breathing tube or snorkel that was in contact with outside fresh air or oxygen. It would not matter about the size of the container that enclosed us.
An aerator is to a fish, what a snorkel is to us!

Size of Aerators and Snorkels

FACTS:

-It is more difficult to breathe through a straw than through a large snorkel.
-A small or ineffective aerator cannot provide as much oxygen in the water as a larger or more effective one.
-If an aerator can provide enough oxygen in the water for the fish to breathe, it doesn't matter how much water surrounds the fish! The only reason that water must be changed occasionally in live wells is to remove ammonia caused by fish poop!

Basic Requirements of Aeration

There are two major considerations in aeration:

1-The gentleness and direction of water flow
2-The size and amount of the air bubbles

Gentleness and direction of Water Flow

Delicate bait such as shad, greenbacks, and white bait will not survive a day of fishing unless the water flow in the livewell is soft and gentle. Turbulent water will damage the bait and force them to work against the current.
Ideal water flow within a live well should be approximately 1 to 2 MPH. And in a circular motion. This will allow fish to school and provide a smooth flow of water over and through their gills. If the water flow is excessive, bait will tire quickly and will not be lively.

Size and Amount of Air Bubbles

Take a look at the air bubbles produced by an aquarium aerator. Watch how quickly the bubbles rise to the surface. They provide little aeration, but are aesthetically pleasing to watch. Bubbles must remain contacting the water, if they are to do the job properly. A good rule of thumb is: The smaller the bubble, the longer it will remain suspended in water to dissolve.

A Lesson in Air Bubbles

The smaller the air bubble, the more slowly it will rise, giving it more time to dissolve in the water.
Due to the higher density of salt water, air bubbles are usually smaller in salt water than in fresh water.

A large 20mm bubble has a volume of 4.19 cm3, and a surface area of 12.6 cm2.

You could make 260 small 3mm bubbles from the large bubble. They would have a total surface area of 83.6 cm2. This is 6.6 times the surface of the 20mm bubble.

The small bubbles, can theoretically aerate 6.6 times as much water with the same amount of air.

Knowing the importance of air bubble size, the effectiveness of different aerator systems becomes readily apparent!

Livewells

Livewells come in many shapes and sizes. Oval or round tanks provide the best circulation. However, rectangular or square wells are satisfactory if there is a directional discharge into the well. The directional discharge will induce the more desirable circular motion.
Spray Bar Aerators
Spray bar aerators add oxygen to the water by jetting small streams of water into the surface. Some air is absorbed into the spray as it passes from the spray bar to the water surface, and when the spray strikes the water surface, air bubbles are injected into the water. For the most part, these bubbles are rather large.
Jets of water from spray bars are generally harsh to delicate bait. Their protective coating and scales are easily removed, and their survival is drastically reduced.

Spray bars are an inefficient aeration system, and should be used only on the hardiest bait.

Air Stone Aerators

Air stone aerators are an inexpensive way to keep bait alive in small containers. They are quiet and gentle, but because their bubbles are typically larger, they need a greater amount of bubbles for a large amount of bait.
Air stone aerators do provide gentle aeration, but they sustain less bait per unit of air than aerators that produce smaller bubbles.

Venturi Aerators

This is the much copied, old aeration technology. They can be purchased as a floating aerator or a bottom aerator with suction cups.
The fast-moving water at the output of the pump creates a vacuum, which suck air into the pump output. This system typically provides larger amounts of smaller air bubbles than previously discussed aerators.

Some models damage bait due to the high speed of water from the pump output.

Thru-Hull Pumps

Thru-hull pumps provide a constant flow of new water into the livewell and eliminate the problems of heat and ammonia build-up. As long as clean water is available, more bait can be placed in a given amount of water than with any of the previously discussed systems. However, when entering water that is less than ideal for delicate bait, care must be taken to secure the intake water. By utilizing a combination of the thru-hull pump with other aeration methods, bait can remain healthy and lively for longer periods of time.

fishing bay resort

Fishing Bay Resort in Mersing, Malaysia is the perfect place to get away from all the worries of the world. This secluded resort located just 45 minutes away by boat from the famous Tioman Island offers you a chance to have a unique experience of staying in an idyllic island setting while not in an actual island. Escape the hustle and bustle of the city and indulge in an unforgettably relaxing experience. Let the calming waves wash your problems away and the blanket of dazzling stars rejuvenate you.

Looking for that great feeling of being in an island? We’ve got the island feel with activities to help set your thrill-seeking spirit free. At Fishing Bay Resort, paradise is truly within reach.

Saya dan keluarga tak ketinggalan kesana pada hari ahad/isnin 09-10/03/2008 untuk mengalami sendiri suasana disana.Sempat juga aku memancing kat tepi pantai fishing bay tu.



kolam mandi pun ada.



Pohon kelapa masih menghiasi sekitar penginapan



Suasana pantai yang nyaman.



Pantai berhadapan dengan beberapa buah pulau kecil.



Anak saya di rumah penginapan .



Mandilah juga,layan anak-anak.



My wife and my son.



Suasana malam yang cantik.

The Bimini Twist

The Bimini Twist is used primarily for offshore trolling, double-line leaders and connecting the main fishing line to shock tippits.


1) Measure a little more than twice the footage you'll want for the double-line leader. Bring end back to standing line and hold together. Rotate end of loop 20 times, putting twists in it.


2) Spread loop to force twists together about 10" below tag end. Step both feet through loop and bring it up around knees so pressure can be placed on column of twists by spreading knees apart.

3) With twists forced tightly together, hold standing line in one hand with tension just slightly off the vertical position. With other hand, move tag end to position at right angle to twists. Keeping tension on loop with knees, gradually ease tension of tag end so it will roll over the column of twists, beginning just below the upper twist.

4) Spread legs apart slowly to maintain pressure on loop. Steer tag end into a tight spiral coil as it continues to roll over the twisted line.

5) When spiral of tag end has rolled over column of twists, continue keeping knee pressure on loop and move hand which has held standing line down to grasp knot. Place finger in crotch of line where loop joins knot to prevent slippage of last turn. Take half-hitch with tag end around nearest leg of loop and pull up

6) With half-hitch holding knot, release knee pressure but keep loop stretched out tight. Using remaining tag end, take half-hitch around both legs of loop, but do not pull tight

7) Make two more turns with the tag end around both legs of the loop, winding inside the bend of line formed by the loose half-hitch and toward the main knot. Pull tag end slowly, forcing the three loops to gather in a spiral.

8) When loops are pulled up neatly against main knot, tighten to lock knot in place. Trim tag end about 1/4" from knot. These directions apply to tying double-line leaders of around five feet or less. For longer double-line sections, two people may be required to hold the line and make initial twist

Rapala Knot

This is an excellent line to lure connection that allows for good action on retrieval.


1. First, tie an overhand knot, leaving five inches of line with which to complete the knot, then pass the tag end through the lure's line-tie ring.


2. Next, pass the tag end back through the overhand knot.


3. Then wind the tag end three times around the standing part of the line.


4. Pass the tag end back through the overhand knot.

Shock Leader

This knot is used when adding a shock leader to your line. The line being added is usually of higher strength than what is spooled on your reel.


1. Run about 12 inches of your leader line on top of the spooled line. Make 5 wraps around your leader line and spooled line. Bring the tag end of the leader line through the loop formed by the wraps. Hold both lines and slowly pull the tag end tight.

2. Now run the free end of the spooled line about 12 inches over the leader line. Make 5 wraps around both lines and pull the tag end through the loop formed by the wraps. Hold both lines and slowly pull the tag end tight.

3. Wet the lines with saliva and pull slowly, holding the tag ends tight against the other line, in opposite directions until the knots butt against each other.

4. Make sure the knots are tight and clip the tag ends.

Lures

go flat: If you prefer to keep the stock hooks on your plugs, flatten the barbs. You'll lose a fish occasionally, but not as many as you may think. (Most fish throw the hook due the angler letting slack form in the line, not due to the lack of a barb). The advantages: you won't kill or hurt another fish by trying to wrestle out a stubborn hook, and you won't have to worry about a trip to the emergency room if you hook yourself or a fishing partner.

high and low: When fishing shorelines from a boat, have the angler in the bow throw a topwater lure, and the angler in the stern throw a jig or other sub-surface lure. Snook are well known for "buzzing" lures, but not hitting them. A subsurface lure will often get smacked once a topwater lure has gotten their attention.

skip your way to snook: Along shorelines, snook move farther back into the roots as the tide rises, where they can be hard to reach. With practice, you can learn to "skip" your baits under overhanging mangrove branches, much like you'd skip a stone across a pond. Though baitcasters are standard fare for fishing Florida's shorelines, a medium-heavy spinning rod (for pulling power) is actually the best bet when using this technique, as baitcasters have a tendency to backlash in this situation.

avoid the bright lights: When fishing lights at night, run your plugs along the dark edges of a lights perimeter, not directly under it. You want snook to instinctively strike your lure, not examine it.

humane hooks: Taking all but the back treble hooks off can give many plugs a much more lively action. That's a big advantage when your target is snook, since they often seem to respond to lively presentations. You'll miss some fish that a lure with a full set of treble hooks would snare, but not as many as you might imagine. And it's much safer on the fish you're going to release.

stay slick: If you remove hooks from your hollow topwater plugs to improve their action, be sure to fill the holes left by the removed hooks with epoxy. If you don't, they'll get waterlogged and lose their newfound action. Some anglers use fingernail polish to fill in smaller nicks and scratches.

less is more: Try substituting single hooks for treble hooks on your favorite topwater plugs. Though some plugs are designed to be perfectly balanced with their stock hooks in place, the action of others can be improved by the reduced friction of a single hook. Needless to say, single hooks make the process of releasing fish much easier.

little lures, big results: Many folks believe that big lures are needed to catch big fish, but that's not necessarily true. Some of my biggest snook have come on smaller lures and lighter line. Sure, it's harder to hook and catch a big fish on light line, but it's much more fun, and they're definitely more likely to fall for a more subtle presentation. This increase in hookups can make your trips more exciting than throwing an oversize lure all day with only a few strikes.

cold casting: When the barometer drops, snook flock inland, seeking refuge and warmth in residential canals, creeks, bays and the like. Depending on the duration of cold fronts and fluctuations in water temperature, they can often be found in deep, calm water that maintains warmer temperatures longer than the shallows. Try fishing residential docks later in the day when the sun is high, especially those which have been deeply dredged to accommodate a large boat. If you're fishing the backcountry, try deep, undercut banks. Fish a sub-surface offering such as a jig or weighted softbait, bumping it slowly across the bottom.

Bellinger Classic Series

Genuine Bellinger Classic Series Rods











Outstanding craftsmanship, attention to detail and an elegant finish are the hallmarks of a Bellinger bamboo fly rod.







Bellinger Classic Series



Our Classic Series, with our classic dry fly taper, are made to the highest of standards. These hand finished rods are distinctly Bellinger, with nickel silver hardware, blued ferrules, antique gold silk wraps with classic java brown tipping, a beautiful agate stripping guide and a finely figured circassian walnut reel seat. Anyone with a passion for bamboo rods will take great pride in owning a genuine Bellinger Classic Series fly rod.



Genuine Bellinger Fly Reels







Bellinger fly reels are known for their high quality!



Our reels are designed for performance, durability, and traditional good looks. Each reel is hand assembled, adjusted, polished, and inspected to insure that you receive only the highest quality reel we can make.



Reel components are precisely machined from the best materials including: German nickel silver, aircraft-grade aluminum, stainless steel, and Delrin®.



We have models to match your budget, your rods, and your kind of fishing.